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Location: Oregon
ok, maybe we are talking about different things. you say it won't crank. ok, that means that the engine won't turn over. the remote starter should be hooked up to the starter solenoid or the purple wire that connects to the starter solenoid. That bypasses everything. If you have power on the battery cable to the starter and ground from the negative battery terminal to the block, your starter should turn over. It will turn over even if it's not in the car if you have it hooked up like that. Have you checked your starter relay? The purple wire to the starter solenoid gets it's power from that solenoid. Your ignition switch sends a signal to the crank fuse. from there it goes to the pcm. The pcm sees the signal from the ignition switch and looks at the neutral safety. If it sees the key in the start position and the neutral safety in the correct position the pcm sends the signal to the starter relay.

pull the starter relay and check it. use a 12V test light and find out which prong is from the "IGN A" fuse. Place the clip of the test light on the ground terminal of the battery or a known good ground. Find the one that has battery voltage all the time. verify it by pulling the IGN-A fuse and it will go to open. that's your power to power up the starter solenoid. the prong that is diagonal across the plug-in should be your starter solenoid. It should show a ground connection. the other two prongs are for the connection that engages the relay. check to see if you are getting the signals from the pcm to close the contacts in the relay.

working on the engine, even replacing the engine shouldn't cause a problem with the pcm.

Are you having a problem with getting the key out? or taking it out of park?


   
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Final score: auto shop 1, shade tree mech 0. Not quite the problem of the nut behind the wheel, but close; the loose screw (bolt) at a ground connection. Continuity check with low powered multi-meter checked ok, but high-powered engine starting didn't happen, because of that loose connection. Thank you mystery mechanic for your thoughts and inputs. They saved me a bunch, not going to the dealership. Best wishes to you.


   
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Location: Oregon
Ah yes, the poor ground connection. not the no ground connection that would be easy to find but the poor connection that will show ground but just not enough ground. A voltage drop test is needed to find that easily. Use your volt meter and measure voltage from the negative battery post and the starter ground (like the engine block somewhere, and though it may look good, you must check it when you go to crank the engine. It may show zero volts when not cranking but when you crank the engine it will shoot up and show you how many volts you lost to the circuit when you put the key in start.

glad it was something simple and didn't cost you a whole bunch of money to find. Congrats.


   
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