I don't know what to do, I have a 1999 Honda Accord and the low beam light isn't working. all the fuses are good, I changed the wiring harness. I even used the Light that lets you know if theres current going through it. And with that I found out the left prong didn't have any current running through it. My problem is I don't know the negative wires are to check if those are good and I don't know how to check the wire to see how far done it isn't working. Do I need to change the whole harness or what do I do. I cant afford to take it to a professional and non of the youtube videos talk about exactly what I need help with.
2004 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 2.4 L
See above video link.
I've been having this odd sound occur while I accelerate - sort of like a grinding sound (about 7 seconds into the video). It might be a bit difficult to hear over the other sound coming from my car... It occurs a lot more frequently when it's cold, when I'm accelerating, and when I am turning while I accelerate.
Also, the more obvious noise that occurs throughout the entirety of the video just began today. It does not occur while I'm stopped and it began when I stepped on the brake a little harder than usual...
Any input would be appreciated, because I know nothing about cars.
things to check, temperature sensor, fuel trim, spark. Some things that happen are, O2 sensor bad, coolant temp sensor bad, engine running lean, bad distributor
I called my local dealership's parts dept, discussed the history (had to drill out the screw, got a blank online, had a hardware store cut it). The person I talked to explained about the chip and told me how to pry it out of the old key. And, offered to do it for me if I brought it in.
So that's what I did. They were very nice about it and took care of me promptly at no charge. Altogether I spent about $35 ($10 for the blank, $25 for the cutting). I also came with a second remote and they loosened the screw so that I could replace the battery without ruining the housing.
Thanks for all the help!
I have a 97 Isuzu rodeo. I haven't started it since April. I went to start it and it was dead.
A year ago I replaced the battery with an Interstate battery. I had the battery replaced at
no charge. I checked the impedance between the battery cables before I went to connect them
to the battery and I found it to be 10 ohms. I suspect that when the rodeo is turned off, power is
still required by some electronic circuits which usually have an impedance in the 10 to 100 K ohms
given a trickle discharge of maybe 1.2 milli amps down to 120 micro amps. Ohms law tells me that 12v/10ohms = 1.2 amps.
Isn't this high? What should the disconnected impedance be between the cables?
Im debating buying thismcar for my 17 year old daughter. The car looks to be in good shape. I plan on doing a timing belt and water pump just for peace of mind. It has 233000 on it and has the 1.6 vteck, CVT transmission. Everything works but I know nothing about those transmissions. Any thoughts or opinions? The car is from the original owner. Ive seen alot more mileage than that but since my daughter will be driving it I was curious about any pitfalls to watch out for. Thanks, Pil
did the shop that did the timing belt hear the noise and check for it?
Hi everyone, I'm looking for buying a new car this year and I found many options too. I got a lot of suggestions from my family and friends. Hence, I am terribly confused now, which one to choose! Some of my friends told me that you better look for Honda, since they are having less maintenance cost when compared to others. I searched online for this and found the same opinion in one blog ( http://www.serviceplus416.com/maintenan ... -maintain/ ). Anyhow, at present I think it's better to stick with Honda.
what causes 1999 Honda odyessy to vibrate at idle and grinding noise,after the oil seal,waterpump and timing belt was replaced?
I have a 2005 Honda Pilot and the rear blower does not work. I have just changed the rear blower resistor and it still does not work. But the blower does work when it is energized. Also, I accidentally touched the resister, when connected, to the metal frame and the blower came on! What is the problem?
Has any Honda or Acura Dealer mechanic ever installed just a new igniter as part of the defective Honda air bag recall?
car just cut off replaced main relay switch and it still just turn over without firing off .What could that be
1996 Accord v-tec 4-cly automatic transmission mystery problem:
I swapped out the car's V-tech 4-cly engine. I then added Honda transmission fluid to replace what was lost during the engine swap but unfortunately added one too many quarts. I then test drove the car. Everything worked great! The next day I attempted to drive it to work. I was 30-miles away and driving at 70 MPH and then slowed down to a stop for a light. The automatic transmission stop working! It was like the trans shifted into neutral. I moved the car very slowly into a gas station one block away by racing the engine. The car sat about 4-hrs before I was able to return with my pick-up and a car tow dolly. I started the car and discovered the transmission was working again. I drove the car onto the tow dolly and towed it home. When it was at home the transmission seem to be OK.
Can someone help tell me what may have happen and a fix? The transmission worked great before and immediately after the engine was replaced. It worked great during the 30-mile drive into work, then, something happened. It stop working. Then it started to work again after it sat 4-hrs and after I arrived home.
The preventative maintenance work I was doing included draining and replacing 3-quarts of Honda transmission fluid during each oil/filter change.
My 1994 Crv motor jumped timing and on inspection it turned out the distributer?(black electrically box behind the timing belt.area) was melted so I replaced it and it was running grea t for 1day drove about 200miles and it jumps timing again won't start at all again what could be causing this to happen I. Have heard I could bend a valve or piston when it jumps time I Need this car for work can't ruin the motor also is there a way. To get the trouble codes without a code scanner
I own a 1988 Honda Accord lx; 2.0 sohc, carb, 5spd,... that cranks but doesn't start. I've ruled out everything but the mechanical and ignition timing. I've never adjusted the timing, and I can't afford a mechanic;
Can anyone please walk me through both how to set the mechanical and ignition timing for my engine?
(1988 Honda Accord Lx) The engine cranks but doesn't stay running; When I press the accelerator to try to get the engine to idle, it doesn't rev; It feels like there is absolutely no power- then it shuts off. The symptoms are similar to when the fuel filter is clogged. Here is what I tried: I made sure it had gas, it's receiving fuel to the carburetor, no fuel filter clogs etc, fuel pump works, I checked the fuses, it's getting a spark from the coil and it looks like the choke isn't sticking. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I own a 1988 Honda Accord LX with a carburetor; When I start the car, it races at @2200 rpm but when the engine is finally warm the idle drops like a rock to just above zero; It runs at that level and doesn't recover. Why won't my engine idle between 900-1,000 rpm?
93 honda prelude steering wheel jurks and car jerks to drivers side and I here a pop noise
My Honda was running fine then it started to leak at the heater valve...and around the same time as the coolant leak started.The an idle problem started up after the car would start up and sit in park for any amount of time.Changed the distributor too and no luck getting it to start up...what do you think it is'
when you did your timing belt, did you turn the crank around by hand one full cycle and see if all your timing marks were still all lined up? this way you take all the tensions on the timing components out and can see when the crank that the cams are still lined up.
if it was running fine before and the only thing that has changed is the timing belt work, you might be one tooth off on a cam.
I need very basic information, because I'm a little slow, to look for a problem. When you say it has a hard time starting and you talk about having the wrong battery, you are not having a cranking or an engine turning over problem right? When you go to start the car it cranks over normally every time you turn the key to the start position. So the battery is doing it's job and the engine is cranking normally but it won't start up. So then we are looking at why it won't fire up and run, right?
OK, if that is the case, you want to look at the fuel pump to see if it is coming on? Power to the fuel pump in the tank is through a black and yellow wire. The wire comes from the PGM FI relay. The relay you said was replaced before. (it is a very common problem with this era Honda). You should use a volt meter and see if, when you are cranking the engine over, you have battery voltage going to the pump. If you do not, you may have to replace this relay again. If you do have power you will need to check at the fuel pump that you have a good signal at the power and ground at the fuel tank connector. That should tell you if you have a problem with the fuel pump or the wiring circuit.
As for the dying I wouldn't think it would be related just offhand. I would be looking at the IAC, idle control valve, for the stalling at idle. If it was a fuel problem I would think that would show up more when you need more fuel (driving) not when you hardly need any (idling).
As far as the battery goes, a car battery is made to start (use a great amount of amps) the recharge and use very little to keep the car running. It should always be pretty well charged up. Deep cycle batteries are made to give out a lower amount of amps for a longer period of time and are made to be run almost all the way down and then be charged back up over time. An automobile battery should have much more cold cranking amps and a deep cycle battery should have much more reserve capacity. A deep cycle battery will work in a car battery scenario for a while but it will usually not be able to keep up with the large starter draw after a time. But it will keep your headlights going a lot longer.
I am sorry for vehicle troubles. Over heating cars now days is a lot worse than it was years ago with cast iron engines and heads. Can you tell me why they replaced the radiator?
when you replace a radiator you can get some coolant that spills on the car that you can't totally clean away so there may be some steam of vapor from the coolant the may take some time to go away. That is very different from having your car over heat for a few days. If your car overheats even one time you may have damaged the head gasket seal area. (depending on how hot the engine may have gotten) What happens is the expansion of the head and the engine block is different when they get overheated. That expansion difference breaks the seal on the head gasket that seal the two parts together. It may take days sometimes months for the head gasket to show the effects of this damage. It can show up as coolant in the oil, engine runs a little rough on start up, white smoke out of the tailpipe and engine compression pressures leaking into the cooling system.
I don't think you can blame the water pump leaking on the shop that replaced you radiator. (just my personal opinion) The parts of the water pump will not usually change with an overheat that gets to 235F to 260F. However that being said, overheating and excessive pressure in the cooling system from a blown head gasket can push past the seals in the water pump and cause it to leak. All things working normally, when you have your radiator replaced you shouldn't have a overheat problem. Even with a small coolant leak, the car shouldn't over heat until the coolant gets very low.
Couple of things you might want to check. 1. use a 2 or 4 or 5 gas analyzer and check for hydrocarbons out of the radiator while the engine is running and warmed up. 2. put a radiator pressure tester on the radiator and watch the pressure build up as the engine runs and revs up. excessive pressure especially as the engine revs up or the signs of hydrocarbons will tell you that head gasket damage is very possible. The bad thing is no, one can tell when a head gasket went bad. Sometimes age, sometimes coolant electrolysis, sometimes overheat but like I said before, it sometimes takes months for the damaged head gasket to show the signs that is has been damaged.
So, in conclusion... I don't think the shop will do your water pump as a result of the leak that showed up. I would have them test for head gasket damage before they do anymore work on your engine. If you do the water pump / timing belt / balance shaft belt (and balance shaft seal and install a balance shaft seal retainer) normally done together, you will be charged double labor if they have to go back and take off the head to do a head gasket.
I posted here in Honda because there is no section for an Isuzu. I have an 1999 Amigo which is the same as the Honda Passport. The problem I am having is this:
I just purchased this car with a friend and a little project. I have managed to make all of the repairs except for this. The car idles rough and is very short on power. When it is at an idle and you floor it (in neutral) it seems somewhat starved for fuel. It revs up very slowly. The best thing I can compare it to is an old carbureted engine with a bad accelerator pump. I also had a check engine light when I first got the car indicating multiple misfires. When I reset the light, it has not come back on. I have driven about 200 miles and it is still off.
So far I have checked the compression. It is 120-/+ in all 6 cylinders.
Fuel pressure is about 40lbs at an idle and if I accelerate it drops. While at an idle, I remove the vacuum line from the regulator and there is no change in pressure. If I pinch off the return line the pressure jumps dramatically. After changing the pressure regulator there is no difference. Since the pressure jumps I am assuming the fuel pump is good. The filter is new.
The plugs are all good.
Injectors were removed and checked. All have good flow and are clean.
I removed the EGR valve and it appears to be closing and sealing.
My next thought is the coils. They are a little bit pricey and I would like to be sure before I do this. Is there any way to test them?
Thanks in advance.
you might want to pull a spark plug wire off the cap and check to see if you have spark. Keep the spark plug wire close to the cap and watch for the spark to jump from the cap to the spark plug wire while someone else cranks the engine over.
wow, you replaced most of the stuff. take the distributor cap and rotor off. have someone crank the engine over and check for spark out of the coil with a test light. If you have no spark you should check the wires going to the coil. Disconnect both wires. turn the key to the run position and find out which of the two disconnected wires has power. If one has power that's good. Now hook the wire that doesn't have power to your test light and the other end of the test light to battery +. Crank the engine over and see if the light flickers as it cranks. (if you have a logic probe you could do this test without disconnecting the wires. just look for the probe to switch from red to green very quickly)
ECM's have been found to cause a no spark. Igniters have too. Some after market distributors fail out of the box.
I've notice over the course of the last week or so, I have checked in the radiator to make sure there is antifreeze. Even when I take the cap off when the car has been sitting for a long time to when the engine is cold, antifreeze will spew out, but there would be coolant left. Today I took off the cap and I did not see any coolant, so I added more. However, the reservoir tank was full (overfull, actually). I haven't noticed coolant in my engine and I don't see oil mixed in with the coolant...any advice?
some things i don't understand. How are you trying to reprogram it?
if you don't put the battery in the remote (the remote is the "key fob" for most cars) will the car start and run normally?
Does putting the battery in the remote make the alarm go off instantly or is there a slight delay. It might be that the panic may be stuck on in the remote. does taking the battery back out of the remote turn the alarm off?
you don't have a second remote?
I'm having 2 problems.
A constant hotwire is nowhere to be found, so in the mean time I decided to hook the constant and accessory wires to the 12v battery wire so I could hookup the speakers and worry about the constant later.
Now when I go to hook up the speakers, the sound comes and goes.
I could hook up 3 speakers and all of them work fine, but when I get to the last one, I connect the wires and all of the speakers stop working.
Could this have anything to do with the fact that I'm running the accessory line to the battery?
Hi there! New here, I have a question for you guys!
I have a 1993 Honda Prelude Si 4WS DOHC 2.2L with a F22B JDM Engine that came with the car when I bought it, my question is would I be able to use any of these turbo kits with this engine?
Link 1 :http://www.ebay.com/itm/321075757744?item=321075757744&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
Link 2: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150876687350?item=150876687350&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp
Link 3: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1993-1994-1995-Honda-Prelude-Turbo-Kits-H22-H22B-H22A-T3-T4-VETC-DOHC-EDM-/390573509663?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aeffecc1f&vxp=mtr
Or what would I need in order to convert any from the links above to make it fit and work with my engine?
I recently bought a 1994 Honda Accord from a friend and it runs great except when I begin to run it for a period of time, I have sometimes have to allow the engine to sit a while before it will start again.
Initially, it starts up right away.
The battery has been checked and is good and the starter turns just fine. It almost sounds like the engine gets choked out or flooded with fuel. One mechanic suggested a tune up but like I said before, it runs smoothly. No missing or skips. I just have to let is sit a while before it starts and then it starts right up with no problem at all. Not always, just now and then.
A mechanic told me that there is a crack in the front mount of my 02 Honda Odyssey van and he would replace it for $450. I took it to my regular import mechanic who told me that when the front mount is replaced the side mounts should be replaced also, and his fee for the job was a little over $1000. I have only 53,000 miles on the van and it is running smoothly with no vibration or roughness. What should I do? ellen
Replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor button, distributor cap, and ignition module. The engine cranks, but will not start. Any idea what this might be?
The car has problems!
1st- It splutters, shudders, shakes. I have to pump the gas quite a bit to get it to turn over and then to keep it running. Once it turns over it is still spluttering and idling really low like its going to die. Stepping on the gas helps it get into the higher rpm where it will idle normally after a minute or so but it is a guessing game of how much gas to give it because sometimes instead of revving the engine it sends back down low where it seems it is ready to stall on me. I have a mechanic but he is out of ideas. We have replaced the starter, motor mounts, spark plugs, air and oil filters, and probably a couple other things I don't recall at the moment. The battery is ok after a draining issue was resolved. We also replaced the timing belt and rechecked it to make sure the it didn't slip once that didn't fix it.
2nd Issue- It keeps throwing the power steering belts. I think I have gone through 4 in the last year I have had the car. 3 of those in the past 4 months. No clue on that. Went to a higher quality but no luck.
3rd. The car has an idling issue. sometimes it idles really high when in neutral or while stopped in traffic or it pulses, revving high then low. This used to be extremely awful. We replaced the IAC and the entire throttle body because the TPS was defective. That helped a lot but it seems like after driving it for a bit in stop and go it gets mad and starts it up again anytime I am stopped or it is in neutral. It isn't as bad as it was but the issue is still there.
Any light you can shed on these issues is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
A broken brake line or hose would cause an immediate loss of your brake pedal. Meaning, it would go straight to the floor and the car would not stop. You would also see the fluid on the ground.
Shaking is usually caused by warped rotors or drums.
The grinding you were hearing is probably just that the brakes are worn down to nothing- metal on metal as they say. This will also cause the shaking.
The pop sound could have been from whatever was grinding finally breaking. Possibly the front caliper piston if it was grinding on the rotor that bad.
Get it checked and DO NOT DRIVE IT !
I have a 1990 Nissan Stanza. I've changed the fuel pump ,filter, spark plugs wires and distributer, i am now at a loss. Ii thought it was a vapor lock after a while it went away and ran fine now it wont start at all.
I'm looking to find out what symptoms show a bad timing chain. I'm a single mother and i need to fix this asap.
I've put too much into it now and i cant figure out what next to try thanks.
i have a 04 kia optima, temp gauge in the red but car is not running hot. put in new temp sensor, gauge still in red
I Have A 1992 honda civic 1.6 with 135,000 my car has very low idle during a stop sign or light almost to the point of dying recently replaced spark plugs the cables and oil and filter.also air filter but still same problem also the car shakds way too much please help.
Hi i have a question, on my 1998 Honda Civic i replaced the cv axles, lower ball join and tie rod end. Everything fitted right but when i drive it feels like the car stability is really bad feels like the car doesn't have a grip and feels like if the road were wet.
Very slippery i don't know if maybe the suspension may cause that or if i do an alignment that problem will be gone.
While I was driving today Honda Accord 2000 LX my car started jerking and D4 started flashing...I drove home on D3 with jerks....what is wrong?
Is is absolutely clear or does the fluid have any kind of color tint to it?
In reverse only my car acts like the emergency brake is on, and it's intermittent.