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Hi, one day I pulled out of my driveway and the engine just shut off as if the key was turned off. I was low on gas at the time so i put in a few gallons of gas but it just cranks and nothing. I got a spark test light and found no spark at the spark plugs and no spark at the ignition coil. I followed the repair manuals instructions to test the coil with a multimeter and didn't get a reading from the left set of pins so I bought a new coil and with an auto ranging multimeter found that the first one was getting a reading on both sets of terminals so appears to be ok. Still no spark with the new coil. I replaced the rotor, cap and spark plug wires. I removed the cap to check out the distributor and found the rotor metal parts all broken apart.
Any help would be much apreciated.


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contributions: 1990
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
you need to find out if the distributor is sending the signal to the computer and/or if the computer is sending the signal to the coil. There are two wires at the coil. One power in run and start. the other is ground from the computer. If you coil is marked, take the (-) ground side off. turn the key on and see if the coil has voltage to the (+) side. If have enough voltage to light up a test light that should be ok. If not, check fuses and power from ignition switch. If power to the coil is good check the wire from the computer to the (-) side of the coil that you took off the coil. it should have a blinking ground while cranking. It probably won't because if it did your coil would have spark.

The distributor has the pick up coil and an ignition control module. Pick up coil makes an AC voltage signal. the module converts the ac signal into on/off signal for the ground for the coil. you will need a waveform viewer to check the signal from the distributor. If you have a graphing multimeter you can hook it up to ignition coil (-) and ground. here's the problem. they only give me specs for 800rpm and 2500rpm. 800rpm should be 27 Hz frequency. 2500rpm should be around 83 Hz. They don't five a spec for cranking, 150 to 300rpm. But it should be something less than 27Hz but I don't know how much less.

distributors going out is common. pick up coil or module... But the computer for this era mazda is known for failure. it has a mitsu. computer and they are known for having a capacitor going out and turning off the computer. there is a place that can repair this computer. http://www.ecmtogo.com they have a phone # you can call and talk to them about the problem if the distributor is not the problem. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR POWER AND GROUNDS FIRST THOUGH.


   
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Thanks for the reply. I think coils usually have a + and - terminal but mine looks like the one in the picture with two pairs. One comes from the starter I think and the other from the distributor.
http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair%20Instructions--/Mazda%20MPV%20Pickup%20Navajo%202/chiltonimages/8964/89642g08L.gif


   
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contributions: 1990
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
the side of the coil that has two wires going to it is the power and ground. the side with only one wire it goes to the tach if you have one. The side wit two wires going to it should be power with the key in run and start and ground to fire the coil. Remove the wire connector and turn the key to run. Of the two wires going to that connector, One side should turn on the power. the other side won't show power while the plug is disconnected. The one that doesn't show the voltage should blink ground while cranking. (wire connector still disconnected) you could use a test light between the two wires in the connector and see if the light flashes when cranking. If you have a logic probe connected to power and ground at the battery you could check ground signal plugged in or not. the logic will show ground pulses with the connector disconnected and will show power and ground switching very quickly with the connector plugged into the coil.

you can unplug the tach side while cranking to see if the tach side might be shorting the coil but that would be unusual.


   
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I wasn't able to do a logic probe test but I did find out that when the key is in the on position I do get a + reading from the left pin on the left side coil connector. No blinking on the right pin of the left side coil connector while cranking. Does that tell you anything?
Oh, and I have 2 wires on the right coil connector going to the distributor.


   
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contributions: 1990
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
the side that is not power, it should blink a ground signal. so the test light has to be connected to the battery+ or to the batt+ on the pin right next it in the connector. If there is no on/off (blink) during cranking that means that there is no signal to the coil. you will need to test the signal coming out of the distributor. You will need to use a meter that can measure Hz so you can catch the signal,


   
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Whats next after checking hz out of distributor I have 4 wires into the distributor blk,blk/red,yellow/blue,pink yellow an pink go to the computer but I don't know witch is what


   
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contributions: 1990
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
I cannot find a good wiring diagram for the distributor part of your truck but I did find some help that could help you check out you distributor signals on a similar problem

http://www.justanswer.com/mazda/5l3nr-m ... nyone.html


   
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