Quantcast




All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Ask A Question Reply    Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 
In surfing your site I was able to read the existing car problems and answers, however could not type in my problem nor find one exactly like mine. Here is my problem. The car motor stopped and I was told it would cost $500. to repair after I towed it into a AAA approved shop. The shop did not want to take the time and explain what needed to be fixed to I opted to get a second opinion. I had it towed home and the next morning did my regular maintenance check and added to it a finger pinch on the joined electrical connections that all come from a cluster connected to the ignition module. The car started and ran great for 2 weeks and then did the same thing. From there approximately 15 mechanics examined my car and all had a different opinion but none really knew what it was. Each time after the car sat for a while then it would start and run for a while and then again stop. It feels like a fuel tank issue but I had the fuel filter changed and some said ignition module but I had already replaced that. I could write a book and am trying to shorten my story.

Finally, last Friday I had an medical emergency that was about 8 miles away and got there by just adjusting the wires in the cluster going to the ignition module (I had already put the old one back in as the so called new one the mechanic had put in did not work) The car stopped on me about 10+ stops which including coming back. It stops more after the car warms up. One thing is wrong and I found it. It is the red wire in that cluster going into the ignition module and it was loose. When I pushed it back in then the car would start but then the movement of the car after a while would loosen it and the car would cut out flat again. One thing is that in forcing the car to run at some point I heard a growl which makes me concerned that I might have damaged my alternator.

NOW THE BIG question is this: what can you tell me about fixing the wire back? It does not seem to be damaged; just loose. Also, the reading on a $45.00 Home Depo purchased scanner was I think 332 which is the knocker #2 and reads that it has poor input which to me is the electrical but if you could tell me where the #2 sensor is then if after I fix the wire then I should change the sensor if I don't have to get the car up to high. Also, what should I buy to use as a cleaner on the wires? The job looks easy but do you think it is or should I just once again put myself in the hands of $##@. also, do you know of a sensor on this car that looks like a bracketed casing? The shop that put in the bad ignition modular also said they put in a sensor and gave me this type of looking bracket in a box as a old part. Also, I am a peaceful person however I wonder how you would handle a shop that just did not do the work needed and used what appears to be a used part. My lose is shy of $400. and he said to me that if I send the parts then he will send them in for a refund but said nothing about refunding the labor even though I told him my old part was working and back in the car.




I appreciate this opportunity to write to you and hope the following will help you in analyzing my problem. I checked the fuses and replaced two, battery connections replaced, replaced a vacuum hose, took heaviness off my key chain, looked up all the recalls on this model as I have not had the car that long (what is best way to deal with GMC because their diagnostic is expensive) They say I have to pay for all and then if GMC pays them then they pay me>:( there is only heat coming into the car from ac so according to the recall the door that switches and opens up below the ac needs to be replaced (is that a big job? any help with pictures for that job? ac does not work even though I have plenty of Freon only hot air comes out and there is a noise behind the dash board that indicates its the door. could it be something else?

I look forward to hearing from you and tool List I need for repairs would help as I am away from my home with very few.

Have a blessed day and life and thanks!

jly


Share on FacebookShare on DiggShare on DeliciousShare on TechnoratiShare on TumblrShare on Google+
   
Reply with quote  
* Search   
 
User avatar

contributions: 1931
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
wow, that is one very interesting story. Can you tell me the year, make, model and engine size that we are talking about? Once I know what we are working on I can get a better picture of what is going on.


   
Reply with quote  
 

contributions: 29
Hi, I forgot to put the make of my car (duhh) It is a 1998 olds intrigue 6 engine. The only thing I like about this car is the turbo burst, wow it really goes. Sorry, But I like fast cars. I am the one that wrote the post Re: GMC Ignition Wires won't start. thanks jly


   
Reply with quote  
 
User avatar

contributions: 1931
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
ok, this is the ignition control module wiring, which color wire is the one that keeps coming out?


Attachments:
98 intrigue.jpg
98 intrigue.jpg [ 208.66 KiB | Viewed 1066 times ]
   
Reply with quote  
 

contributions: 29
Hi, thanks it is the red one to the far left of the cluster when you are looking down at cluster


   
Reply with quote  
 
User avatar

contributions: 1931
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
you might have to see if the pin on the wire harness can be adjusted or replaced so that it can be made to stay in the connector. the pin has a small piece that sticks out to hold it in the plastic connector. or the connector has a tab that locks the pin in place. you will have to have the connector looked at to see which style it is and if you need a new pin or if you need a new connector.


   
Reply with quote  
 

contributions: 29
This electrical cluster is no longer available for purchase so I am stuck to fix it myself. Question: If I am successful after disassembly and repair will I need to reboot the computer or do anything else. By the way according to the diagram I could not find the red wire in the location I am seeing it. Was there another Intrigue 98 olds? If so, will you send me that? Thanks and have a blessed day. :roll:


   
Reply with quote  
 
User avatar

contributions: 1931
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
I don't know what you mean by cluster. if you are talking about the wire harness that connects to the ignition module that sends the signal for the coils to fire, NAPA sells a pigtail that you can splice in to replace the connector.

napa #EC494. it is not a very common item to go out so they may have to order it from a warehouse that is not local to your town, but they can get it. if the wires are the ones going to the ignition module, you don't need to reprogram anything. Just clear the codes if you have any and drive to see what everything does.


   
Reply with quote  
Ask A Question Reply    Go to page 1, 2  Next


   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Most Recent 
New Articles View the first 2004 envoy xuv wont start

in GMC Trucks

tonistroder

2

1453

Tue Jun 02, 2015 12:50 pm

heavyjets View the latest

New Articles View the first 1981 chevy wont start after shut it off for a while

in GMC Trucks

1936chevy

2

991

Fri May 29, 2015 7:30 am

1936chevy View the latest

New Articles View the first Is it the ignition switch?

in Chevy Trailblazer

depotdave

2

610

Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:44 pm

depotdave View the latest

New Articles View the first 91 gimmy ignition switch

in Chevy Trucks

thdrduck

4

892

Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:47 am

thdrduck View the latest

New Articles View the first 1991 Chevy Silverado ignition coil

in Chevy Silverado

natnatlvnv333

6

1550

Wed Sep 03, 2014 8:03 am

natnatlvnv333 View the latest

New Articles View the first 1994 c1500 ignition coil plug wire keeps burning out

in Chevy Silverado

Presur

1

1111

Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:23 am

carriedi View the latest

New Articles View the first Z71 GMC new fuel pump still wont crank

in GMC Trucks

hardonthagas

2

1092

Tue Jun 23, 2015 2:39 pm

hardonthagas View the latest


All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]



Search for:
Jump to:  
Contact Us