In surfing your site I was able to read the existing car problems and answers, however could not type in my problem nor find one exactly like mine. Here is my problem. The car motor stopped and I was told it would cost $500. to repair after I towed it into a AAA approved shop. The shop did not want to take the time and explain what needed to be fixed to I opted to get a second opinion. I had it towed home and the next morning did my regular maintenance
check and added to it a finger pinch on the joined electrical connections that all come from a cluster connected to the ignition module. The car started and ran great for 2 weeks and then did the same thing. From there approximately 15 mechanics examined my car and all had a different opinion but none really knew what it was. Each time after the car sat for a while then it would start and run for a while and then again stop. It feels like a fuel tank issue but I had the fuel filter changed and some said ignition module but I had already replaced that. I could write a book and am trying to shorten my story.
Finally, last Friday I had an medical emergency that was about 8 miles away and got there by just adjusting the wires in the cluster going to the ignition module (I had already put the old one back in as the so called new one the mechanic
had put in did not work) The car stopped on me about 10+ stops which including coming back. It stops more after the car warms up. One thing is wrong and I found it. It is the red wire in that cluster going into the ignition module and it was loose. When I pushed it back in then the car would start but then the movement of the car after a while would loosen it and the car would cut out flat again. One thing is that in forcing the car to run at some point I heard a growl which makes me concerned that I might have damaged my alternator.
NOW THE BIG question is this: what can you tell me about fixing the wire back? It does not seem to be damaged; just loose. Also, the reading on a $45.00 Home Depo purchased scanner was I think 332 which is the knocker #2 and reads that it has poor input which to me is the electrical but if you could tell me where the #2 sensor is then if after I fix the wire then I should change the sensor if I don't have to get the car up to high. Also, what should I buy to use as a cleaner on the wires? The job looks easy but do you think it is or should I just once again put myself in the hands of $##@. also, do you know of a sensor on this car that looks like a bracketed casing? The shop that put in the bad ignition modular also said they put in a sensor and gave me this type of looking bracket in a box as a old part. Also, I am a peaceful person however I wonder how you would handle a shop that just did not do the work needed and used what appears to be a used part. My lose is shy of $400. and he said to me that if I send the parts then he will send them in for a refund but said nothing about refunding the labor even though I told him my old part was working and back in the car.
I appreciate this opportunity to write to you and hope the following will help you in analyzing my problem. I checked the fuses and replaced two, battery connections replaced, replaced a vacuum hose, took heaviness off my key chain, looked up all the recalls on this model as I have not had the car that long (what is best way to deal with GMC
because their diagnostic is expensive) They say I have to pay for all and then if GMC
pays them then they pay me>:( there is only heat coming into the car from ac so according to the recall the door that switches and opens up below the ac needs to be replaced (is that a big job? any help with pictures for that job? ac does not work even though I have plenty of Freon only hot air comes out and there is a noise behind the dash board that indicates its the door. could it be something else?
I look forward to hearing from you and tool List I need for repairs would help as I am away from my home with very few.
Have a blessed day and life and thanks!