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I need a fuse that is not for sale at auto zone so it might be that the truck is so old?
If you know of a site or place please let me know
thanks and have a blessed day!
jly


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contributions: 2056
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Location: Oregon
what kind of fuse is it? Is it a fuse from the ford manufactured engine and chassis or is it a fuse for the after market add on for the RV portion of the truck?

most fuses have a identification marked on them. can you read the letters and numbers on your fuse?


   
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It is a 20A, located under the steering column so I assume it is a Ford fuse box for the truck. Since I typed to you I found an assortment box at a new Auto Zone and bought It. I don't know that it is the right one for that use.
I guess if I try it and it burns then what? do you have a contact e mail for Ford where I can check it out?
Thanks so much for you help!
have a blessed day
jly


   
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contributions: 2056
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Location: Oregon
ford has an OEM website but I don't think they don't go all the way back to 76

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/ ... d=&gutsid=

On the 20 amp fuse, if the original fuse was a 20A and it blows, they also make a 20A circuit breaker that will reset itself. But, If it does blow right away, you're going to need to find the short in the circuit. With the fuse NOT in the system, what doesn't work? What is the fuse for? Do you know what circuit the fuse is protecting?

If you need time to find the short and don't want to burn out a ton of fuses, use a test light between the two fuse terminals in the fuse box. Using the light bulb in place of the fuse will allow you to energize the circuit but because the light bulb draws current it won't blow out like a fuse. Then trace the wiring from the fuse box to whatever it is supposed to go to. Finf the short to ground.


   
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The check of the fuses was a general one to see if all was o.k. because I had replaced the cylinoid.
I purchased an assortment box of fuses marked AGX. The new fuse reads 20A on one end and on the other end reads 250V and after that I cannot make letters out.

The old fuse has 20A and 32V. I don't know whether to use it or not. It is all I think that auto zone has.
You sound so smart odds are you can tell me the trouble I can get into? lol
The old fuse before I took it out was wrapped in tin foil & the glass was cracked but maybe it was working?
probable should have left it? "I crushed it real good taking it out lol." It's for sure dead now, lol.

By the way my RV's name is "Old Birtha" I think there was a ship named that in history? I have had her for
at least 6 years and she had a rebuilt engine that bought the mileage to all of 3,000 then. She now has over
30,000 miles and this is the first time I have had a problem to even work on!

originally when I found the wire he had failed to connect it's condition was crushed and he finally wrapped
some of the damaged wire in somewhat that condition so I am wondering if my short is because of the condition of that wire he wrapped in poor condition without my approval? The wire was then tested on the correct side of the cylinoid and smoked and then he cut and trimmed with a wire that did not seem to be as large. Since I last typed to you I have tested the new part of the wire and it is not live but the old part is live. I am now thinking that maybe the " condition of the wire that smoked" was my short. One reason I think this is that before the cylinoid was replaced the truck started with first try after sitting in storage for l l/2 years. If I trim the old section of the wire and take it to auto zone do you think they can tell the strength and if so I can trim and add the new wire and just give it a try. If there is no short in the rest of the wire then maybe that will fix it?????? what do you think?
I appreciate all the help you can give me. Have a Blessed day.

jly


   
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Location: Oregon
RV's don't follow a traditional wiring diagram as a regular ford truck because they add a lot of stuff after they buy it from ford. Any circuit that connects to the battery side of the starter solenoid should be hot (battery +) because they are connected to the positive battery cable. If you cut any of those wires the side no longer connected to the solenoid should show a ground unless the circuit is open.

Putting aluminum foil on a fuse will make the circuit live but with no protection for overloading. It could cause a fire if there is a short in that circuit.

okay, forget everything we have talked about before now.

What doesn't work in your RV? without the wire connected and without the fuse replaced, what is not working? If everything is working don't fix anything. If something doesn't work, tell me what's not working and lets see if we can go from there.


   
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thanks. at present there is no sound when I try to start or do anything from the dash, no power/dead.
The batteries check as being fully charged. Can there be any damage done if I have installed the wrong relay? auto zone said relays were all mostly universal and the 496 was the only one that looked like the old one taken out.
Thanks again for your help and have a blessed happy day.
jly


   
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Location: Oregon
do you have a volt meter or a test light to test the starter relay?

Some of the wires that hook up to the battery side of the starter relay are fusible links. They are wires that serve as fuses. They can burn out inside the insulation and shut power off to whatever they connect to. sometimes the insulation will burn through and sometimes not. you have to check every fusible link to see if you have a burned one.


   
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