98' C2500 will not Crank

[adlergc]

I am at the Hair pulling stage and I don't have much left! Please help!

I have a no crank situation with my 98' chevy 2500 5.7 vortec. It started right up yesterday; I drove to bank ran in and out, truck would not start. 30 minutes later it started. I then drove home, ran in grabbed something and it would not start again. 30 minutes later it started. I drove to store it would not restart, towed it home to my shop where it sits now. I have gone through all the usual steps of testing everything from the key up to the starter. Here is what I have so far:

1) Remote switch to starter and it cranks. Bench test starter not necessary at this point I believe.
2) multi meter to S post on starter, key to ignition position, meter shows 11.2 volts at S post, key off meter shows 0 volts.
3) swapped out starter relay with brand new one, no changes. Tested both sides of relay block(constant and key on) 12.9 volts.
4) Security system light does go out after 5 seconds, so that is not issue, I think?
5) adjusted neutral safety switch every which way, no change. tried to start in neutral, no change.

It would appear that from the key to the starter all the power is where it should be!???? What am I missing???

Many Thanks In Advance!!!!!!

[carriedi]

ok, when you use a remote starter switch you can get the starter to engage. but when you use the key the meter reads 11.2 volts at the starter solenoid? what does the meter read if you use the remote starter switch?

I would think that 11.2 volts would be enough to pull the starter solenoid down but there needs to be an amp draw too. you may not have a good connection from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. you might want to do a voltage drop test on the starter relay wire that becomes the purple wire that goes to your starter solenoid. or run a test jumper from the relay to the solenoid. thing is you have to do it when the truck won't start so you can see where the problem is when it is acting up.

[adlergc]

Many thanks in advance!
I was getting ready to go out and check and clean all starter terminals. That would be to easy if truck starts.
The thing that got me is the fact that the issue get progressively worse.
According to a GM service tech, 11.2 at starter, with key in the start position, is enough to turn starter. with that said, there is obviously an issue somewhere and it most likely a very simple one that has been over looked.

P.S. the truck does run with the key in "on position" and using a remote starter.

[adlergc]

update:
cleaned terminals, no start.
reconnected remote switch starts and drives like a champ.

Note: I did notice for the first time that as soon as I connected the remote switch I heard a clicking, if you will, from the the injector control module directly behind the throttle body. I have never hard that before.

[adlergc]

update again,

disconnected the S pole lead and redid meter test. with key in start position the end of the lead now has 13.8 volts. I reconnected the lead to the starter and it went right down to 10.9 doing the same test.

I did a voltage drop test on starter and it was 12.9 before and after key was put in the start position.

Bad Solenoid???????

[carriedi]

you have to test the current to the starter solenoid in conjunction with the remote starter. If your vehicle will start every time with the remote starter switch then the solenoid is not the problem because the remote starter switch is still using the same starter solenoid.

with your remote starter hooked up but not being pushed, does the truck start with the key? If your truck does not start with the key in the start position I would look at the starter relay. The purple wire that goes from the under hood fuse box starter relay to the starter solenoid should be looked at. I would pull the starter relay and with a fused jumper see if the starter can be initiated. If you cannot start it from the relay pin you may have a bad connection inside the fuse and relay block. if it does start from relay pin check to make sure you have a good connection through the relay and power from the 40A fuse marked IGN A. and check the relay it making a good solid click when the key is put into the start position.

[adlergc]

already tested. also swapped in a new relay.
ran voltage test at end of starter post wire(purple) disconnected and it showed no voltage with key in off position and 12.9 with key in start position.
re-connected it showed 10.9 with key in start/ign position and no voltage when n off position.

this tells me that everything is as it should be right up to the end of that purple wire that connects to the S Post on the starter!?!?

but what do I know? I am just a General Contractor with a History Degree and a 16 year son that thinks he is Speed Racer!!!!

[carriedi]

ok, it starts every time with the remote starter switch, is that correct? yes, no, sometimes...

[adlergc]

Final update:
First Thnx for all the help!!!!!!!

The purple Starter wire was found to have been pinched at some point. I replaced it back to the source, reconnected to S post and still no crank!! I was pissed. I then removed wire from post and voltage tested. 12.9!!! WooHoo!!! but still no crank! ARGH.

Advance Auto Parts + 20% coupon; new starter installed and away I went down the road.

In the end, I believe I had 2 issues:
1). pinched wire
2). dying solenoid

Many the truck gods be with all of you!!!!

[chucknbecky2011]

Not sure if you have fixed problem or not, but my husband has a 98 Chevy 1500 5.7 vortec. He was experiencing the same issues you are and had to replace his crank shaft censor. Best way to test is to turn the key over and listen for fuel pump. Hear it? You have fuel. Next try this: go to where spark plugs are, take the spark plug wires off, lay a screwdriver against the metal. 1 of 3 things should happen. 1. You get a spark, 2. You get a small jolt, or 3. Nothing happens. This means the truck is cranking, getting fuel, but no fire power. Replacing the crank shaft censor should solve this issue. Hope this helps!!