I have a snow plow truck and I think the rod came off or the switch went bad. What do I need to do to get to it?
Thanks in advance.
91 gimmy ignition switch
Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
it is common for the ignition switch actuator rack to break and make it so the lock and tumbler no longer will start or won't let you turn off the dash lights. you will need some special tools to go in and check inside the steering column. You have to pull the steering wheel off. Then remove the lock plate. (it's spring loaded) remove the turn signal switch handle. Remove the turn signal switch from the mounts and pull it up and over to the side out of the steering column. Remove the shift lever and the shift collar. Then you should be able to see the gear that the lock and tumbler turn to move the rack for the rod that goes down to the ignition switch. It's a lot of small parts that have to all go back together and be in the right position for it all to work right.
steering wheel puller
lock plate puller/installer
it's not a hard job but it is a little complicated
steering wheel puller
lock plate puller/installer
it's not a hard job but it is a little complicated
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Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
Thank you for the reply. I can see the rod move so am pretty sure it is the switch itself. I started to tear into it and looks like I just about need to pull the whole column out. Yea!!
Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
the ignition switch and the dimmer switch are held on to the steering column by bolt/screws and are adjustable. If you slightly loosen the bolts slightly you can slide the parts up or down on the steering column to get the right adjustment. You can do this without taking the column out.
When the ignition rack and rod actuator breaks it will still move the rod most of the time. It just won't move it far enough. It either won't go far enough to start or it won't go far enough to turn everything off. Which way does your key not work? If you can see the rod, use a long needle nose pliers and grab the rod and push it towards the firewall and you should be able to start the engine. Push it back towards the steering wheel and you should be able to turn everything off. The ignition rack is always connected to the rod so if you use the needle nose pliers and hold the rack, turn the key back and forth. the rod should always move as the key moves. If the key has any spots where the key moves but the rack doesn't (will feel like there's a delay or slack between the key movement and the rod movement) the rack may be damaged. Or if you have the key out of the ignition so the ignition is locked use the needle nose pliers and try to move the rod back and forth. With the ignition locked the rod should be able to travel back and forth. If the rack is broken you will be to move the rod .
When the ignition rack and rod actuator breaks it will still move the rod most of the time. It just won't move it far enough. It either won't go far enough to start or it won't go far enough to turn everything off. Which way does your key not work? If you can see the rod, use a long needle nose pliers and grab the rod and push it towards the firewall and you should be able to start the engine. Push it back towards the steering wheel and you should be able to turn everything off. The ignition rack is always connected to the rod so if you use the needle nose pliers and hold the rack, turn the key back and forth. the rod should always move as the key moves. If the key has any spots where the key moves but the rack doesn't (will feel like there's a delay or slack between the key movement and the rod movement) the rack may be damaged. Or if you have the key out of the ignition so the ignition is locked use the needle nose pliers and try to move the rod back and forth. With the ignition locked the rod should be able to travel back and forth. If the rack is broken you will be to move the rod .
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Re: 91 gimmy ignition switch
Thanks again, that all makes sense. I can see the rod... I'll try to get to it today and check it out.
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