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The car will crank up but won't turn over it's happened before but istarted it right up the next day but this time it just won't start please help


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contributions: 2002
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
have to check the basics. Spark, fuel pressure and injector pulse.


   
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our 2001 Regal GS the engine turns but won't start. the fuel pump and filter, ignition key lock switch and ignition switch, the crankshaft position sensor have all been replaced the ignition coils and module have been tested and are ok. yet there is no spark. I don't know which way to turn.


   
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contributions: 2002
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
before changing parts you should do some testing. have you checked to see if you have injector pulse? Have you checked the signal to the ignition module from the crank sensor?

what is the 8th digit in your vin #? (1 or K)


   
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I got no pulse at the injector when trying to start. I also have no spark. The eighth digit in the vin is 1. What does that mean? I had a mobile mechanic come out and check it. he told me it was the crank sensor . I told him to go ahead and replace it. It did not fix it. he charged me $130.00 told me then it must be the computer, and went on his way.


   
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contributions: 2002
Images: 37
Location: Oregon
there are some tests that can be done before you replace parts. It's easy to guess and throw in a part. But a little checking would have been better and saved time and money.

the first things that should have been checked would have been the 3X and the 18X signals from the crank sensor. you should have a four wire crank sensor. It has two hall effect switches that share one magnet. The place to check their signals is up at the ignition module. The ignition module had an electrical plug-in that has a bolt in the middle to hold it in. The wires that go into the connector should be lettered. P,N,M,L,K,J,H,(THE BOLT)G,F,E,D,C,B,A. G is the 18X signal and H is for the 3X signal. Using a graphing multimeter or lab scope you can check to see if you have the correct signal or not from the crank sensor. J is the signal from the cam position sensor. You can also check the cam sensor signal on the wire at pin port F going out to the power control module.

P should be ignition voltage (battery voltage). N should be 10V. M should be the ignition control module ground.

By checking H for the 3X signal and G for the 18X signal, if you have a good signal at both wires then the crank sensor should be good and not need to be replaced.

Without being there and checking what signals you have or don't have it's difficult to say what is the cause of your no start. there is a Cam signal and a crank signal that both go to the ignition control module (ICM). the ignition takes those signals and sends information to the Power Control Module (PCM). The ignition module sits under your ignition coils which send out the spark for your spark plugs. The signal out of the ICM that goes to the PCM tells the PCM when to fire the injector pulse. Checking to see if you have the correct powers and grounds will tell you if the ICM is being supplied with all the right stuff to allow it to work.

You will need to have someone verify that you don't have spark and injector pulse. Then check the ignition module wires to see if you should have them. If you have a mobile mechanic come out to you to check out you vehicle, ask him if he has the equipment and knowledge to check the signals going in and out of the ICM. If he doesn't then he will most likely buy parts and try them until he gives up or until you run out of patience and money on his guesses.

It will be slightly technical to check everything but it should be done before you replace any parts. Sometimes replacing parts before you take the car in to get fixed makes it harder fro the shop you take it in to because they will assume that the parts to have already replaced are all working correctly and not check them. Defective parts do happen. checking the system correctly would be to go through and check as if everything is suspect.

So, after all that, you should have your car looked at by a good mobile mechanic or a good shop. That whomever you let work on your car knows how to check things out correctly. Verify that you have or don't have spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure. make sure it's not the security system or that the engine is flooded. Hooking up a scanner to look at what your computer (PCM) is doing would come in handy too.

Sorry, I wish I could be more help but there is a lot of checking that needs to be done on you car before you can make a decision on what part needs to be replaced.


   
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HELP!! I have a 2004 Buick Regal Supercharged. 2 days ago it stalled while I was driving. I smelled sulfer and a mechanic friend of mine said it was my Catalytic Converter. We drilled holes in it to get it to Midas. They replaced the Cat Conv and within 3 miles of leaving there it stalled again. When I start it it instantly dies. What could it be?


   
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