I recently changed my rear brake pads and rotors on my 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4. After changing them and pressing on the pedal the rear calipers wont release and "drag" while driving down the road. Thus, causing the pads and rotors to get very hot. Removed them and reinstalled the old pads and rotors and everything is working ok. I can get the pistons (single piston caliper) to go back in using a C-clamp. I also changed the front pads and have had no trouble at all with the front end. Any ideas?
Answer: The new rear brake pads and rotors could be slightly different than what you have on there, or be completely wrong. Something is causing the pad to hang up which in turn isn't letting the caliper back off after a brake application. Did the new pads include hardware? If so, you should always use what comes with the new parts.
There could also be a machining error or other mis-manufacturing step on the parts you bought. Your best bet is to get genuine GM parts to replace your old brakes. Make sure everything looks identical in size and shape, and be sure to install the pads in their proper location. Usually the wear indicator goes towards the inside, but always check first and put it back the way it was.
Brake problems....I have a 1971 Chevy C-10 pick-up. I have all NEW hardware on all four corners. New brake lines from the front hook-up on back. No new lines on the front. Have bleed all lines and regulator. Pedal goes to floor and needs help to come back up. How do I trouble shoot the main cylinder and brake booster? I think maybe the spring inside the booster may be broken or lost tension, or the main cylinder may be leaking because I see a LITTLE fluid at the bottom outside of the booster. Any ideas?
Answer: Yes what you describe sure sounds like the tell-tale signs of a bad booster/master cylinder assembly. The older trucks are pretty simple in design, and you could very well have a return spring weak or broken. The leak you see at the master cylinder is not good either. With that type of setup, it's best just to go with a complete assembly. There's no point in just replacing a booster or master cylinder separately since you seem to have problems with both. You could also be experiencing the master cylinder leaking into the booster as well. If you remove the master cylinder, you should see right away where the problem is.
Car Repair Help, Questions And Answers
World Of Wheels Electrical Testing Belt Diagrams Mustang Engine Overhaul All about Tires