Ok, I haven't gotten a new starter on it yet, so I haven't checked for injector pulse, but for argument's sake, let's pretend there was no injector pulse due to the passlock system shutting it down...what would be the remedy
Will a 5.3 from a '99 Silverado be a direct replacement for a 5.3 in a '01 silverado without changing any sensors, connectors, or accessories, etc.?
This is nothing new to my 2005 4.8L Silverado. Usually the problem came and went but now it's staying. As soon as I crank my truck the electric fan cuts on and idles rough. As soon as I start to drive and apply throttle the temperature gauge goes from min to max (typically stays at 210) and the engine almost dies and cuts off, almost like it has bad gas. When I idle in drive the truck revs up and begins to speed up. Have big plans for the truck so I need help as to what to check or replace! Thank you!
2011 5.3 engine, is there an adjustment that can be made on the computer to increase horsepower? Could really use an answer thanks ahead of time.
Is it true that chips that connect to the maf/iat sender do nothing for performance on a 5.3 2011 silverado?
Is it true that chips for the mad/iat do nothing for performance?
Truck is Jerking, hesitation.. Does this in any gear and speed, what is causing this
I have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3 engine I was driving on the freeway and my truck came to stop the engine was still running but wouldn't move in to gear never happen before I don't think it the transmission because it didn't give me any warning sign like slipping and such so what else could it be
Have a 95 K2500 4x4, TBI that's got me stumped. The MIL light starts to flicker when its in gear and accelerating. The flickering changes in intensity constantly. The truck runs fine. I get a normal 12 code when activating the diagnostic circuit. I 've pulled the ECU checked all the wiring and made sure all the grounds are good. Here's the crazy part. Accelerate in reverse and the problem doesn't happen. Only in drive. Any suggestions? Thanks
I have a 95 Silverado with a cylinder with 5psi so i would like to swap my 5.3l from a 2000 GMC in to the 95. Is this possible and if so how much of a pain in the ass would it be? Thank you advance for answer.
A few days ago my wife left she called back said the speedo, tach, and PRND321 indicator lights wasn't working I told her to come back and I would look at it. When she got back she said when she went to pull out that it felt like the brake was stuck. I checked some fuses, fluid, ect found nothing obvious. I started the truck and everything was working I drove it and it drove fine. She went on to visit her family with no issues. It's been 4 days and approximately 200 miles later then last night the transmission slipped a little or the RPM's went higher than they should and it wasn't a smooth transition either going into 3rd or 4th. I had it hooked up to a computer and the codes were P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, and P01860 all transmission codes. The transmission was rebuilt about 6 months ago but of course the warrant has expired. I know multiple transmission codes can mean it's the ignition but would that also cause or allow it to slip. Any ideas of what I should try to replace first?
Have a 1995 K1500. I bought the truck with a bad engine and put a replacement engine in it. The truck started up but would not shut off until I disconnected the battery. The pink wire has power going to the coil all the time. I have unplugged the ignition switch to eliminate that and I still have power at the pink wire as soon as I hook up the battery. Not sure what direction to try next.
Just bought this truck a couple weeks ago most of it seemed fine to the naked eye some cosmetic problems, door locks, muffler, and power steering pump, and some other minors. however i was doing some light 4x4 in our back lakes aria and thew truck shut off ue to over heating. let it cool down put some water and coolant in it and got it home. replaced radiator, top and bottom hoses, thermostat, and then found out the leak was the water pump. replaced and problem solved... however now when in drive reverse or any other gear that makes the vehicle move, it does not. maybe an inch or two. its almost like trying to drive with the e brake on. yes i have checked that, also changed tranny fluid and filter. I am at a loss and have put all the money i have into this and am missing out on work. is there anyone who can help me with this? again its a 96 Z71 silverado k1500 4x4 5.0 . is there a sensor that i missed. tried adjusting the shift cables and what not it wants to move but just wont do it.
New help with my truck I have replaced everything but the engine it's a 5.7 Chevy can't get no spark from coil I replaced it still nothing has power to it anyone have any ideas please help
when you had the scanner on it did you look at the coolant temp and the fuel trims?
holding the gas pedal down to start, all the way down to the floor or just down enough to open the throttle?
all the way down while cranking is what is called "clear flood" it shuts off the fuel injectors to allow excess fuel to be cleared from the system. If that is what you have to do, then you have to look for why the engine is getting too much fuel.
If you push the gas pedal down to start but not all the way, then you are opening the throttle that may give it a little more fuel and air flow. You Idle air control solenoid my be dirty or stuck, your throttle body may be coked up. Maybe your fuel pressure is too low not allowing enough fuel to get through. Like a weak fuel pump taking too long to prime up the system. Or a bad check valve in the pump.
was the tool you hooked up a scanner or was it just a code reader?
Ok.my 89 chevy dies when put into reverse,drive and dies at a stop.ive replaced almost every sebsor under the hood (besides knock sensor cause nothing to do with the problem) replaced egr cleaned throttle body.plz help. Btw c1500 350 5.7
I will need year make, model, engine size, 2 or 4wd, cabin type (2 dr, 4dr, ext-cab...) to get a wiring diagram for your vehicle.
You may have a broken wire in the wire harness where the door opens and closes. I know you say you checked everything but you should check again. If you know somewhere that you can access a good scanner you might want to scan your vehicle for codes related to the body control module.
did you touch any wires to the body and short something out? Why did you change the speaker and what things did you unplug to change it?
If the door is still open, try putting the old speaker back is and see if maybe the speaker is not compatible.
I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500. When I start the truck, and am on gravel or a slick spot and step on the gas, the rear tires may slip but when that happens, a wheel locks up and is hard to get unstuck. Any ideas?
I have a 95 Silverado Z71 with a 5.7L. No power to Ecm1, Engine1 fuses under the hood or coil. Battery is good had it tested. Checked pink wire coming out of ignition switch and it had power but there is no power going to coil. truck will turn over but will not start up any help would be greatly appreciated .
2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4 changed transmission because wouldn't move in drive or reverse switched it out wit 1999 Chevy suburban transmission still won't mive
I have a 1992 Chevy pickup truck, K-1500 Scottsdale model, 1/2ton, 4wd., with a 350 V8 engine. I have no taillights. The parking lights, stoplights, turn signals, backup lights, & headlights all work. I checked all of the rear light sockets and they are alright. They all have ground. What could be the problem? Also, the fuses are all okay. The only thing I haven't checked is the parking light switch. Any answers would be appreciated. Thanks.
My 95 z71 dies when I turn on lights and heater battery good alternator good. Running rough no power too? Changed fuel filter.break petal gets harder when I give it gas to?
the truck came in with no ABS lights on the dash at all. But the truck was hopping at stops. I put the scanner on it and it said DS ABS sensor failure and PS weak. replaced both. Now on the test drive the ABS light came on rescanned and its reading DS intermitin. i've check the conections replaced the sensor with the best quality one and still its reading the same problem. Now the truck is not hopping at stops. Its braking fine... Just that light keeps coming on. I'm going to try the ground wire but I've never had this problem come up before and i don't want to keeprunning in circules. Any suggestions would help thanks.... Again there was no ABS light on to begin with and its a 2003 2wd 4.8L....I'm going to pull up the codes this mornibg and I will post them a little later....wELL THE CODE WAS c0227 If I remember right. I changed the front hub and the ABS light is now out but the chattering has come back but now only in the last 1 to 2 feet.... its more like a skipping. the only other thing i can think is the ECBM.
I have a 1994 silverado that the floor shifter will not move, its stuck in 2 wd. I can not move it up into 4 wd high or low? Please help if you have this problem and how can I correct it? Thank you in advance.
I have a 07 1500 Chevy Silverado LTZ 6.0 vortec max with about 130000 miles on it I've hade it for about 6 months and I've hade cylinders cola pse two diffrent times the 3 and the 6 I paid two grand for the first cylinder repair have not hade the second repaired and was wondering if it would be possible to swap the 6.0 vortec for a 5.7 vortec because the 6.0 just keeps giving me problems but I want to keep the truck please help me out here thanks
I just installed a new motor on my 89 chevy silverado 5.7 v8. How do I break it in? I know that there is a break in period I'm just not sure how it works. Please help.
I've got a 1988 K5 Blazer 4x4 350 TBI with a 4 speed and when it warms up it idles at about 1500 rpm. I checked for a code , got 24 vehicle speed sensor, I don't think that would mess with the idle would it ? If it is the Throttle Position Sensor , or the Idle Air Control Valve , or something else the computer controls I would get a Trouble Code right ? Any ideas
Thanks , Steve
when I'm driving and I hit bumps it feels like my bed on my truck is going to fly off , what seems to be the problem ?
Just put a new engine in my truck runs great when hooked up to obd computer but when you disconnect the the obd it dies fuel pump stops pumping any ideas why?
ok.. as for the scanner... ive been on e bay looking... cant find anything that specifies duramax diesel... does anyone know offhand a decent enough one for the person on a budget... i dont want to purchase one that does not work on duramax
Bought a t trailer wire harness put it on today. Where you just unplug the wires under the truck. Once I got done hooking it all up,tested everything.. when I went out there later and started it up my truck's battery light was on, the battery gage was almost in the red. I then turned on my blinker, once I did that my rpm and battery gage was pulsing to my blinker. I unhooked the wire harness and just plug everything back in like it was and it's still doing it. I had the battery checked about a month ago because my truck wouldn't start so I had it test. It was good and come to find out it was my alternator so I replaced that with a new one.. so anyone know what it could be
why doesn't my gauges work
Hi I have a 97 z71 I got a few weeks ago I am putting a new motor in it because the motor was bad when I got it I got it from a guy that didn't live far from me so I pulled it with a strap home it rolled fine anyway me and a buddy when to move it today and the drivers side rear wheel is locking up but only going forward I don't understand why its only doing it forward or why it's doing it at all since I just pulled it to the house about three weeks ago anybody got any ideas?
I have a 1997 Silverado starts just fine , idles just fine , as soon as you step on the brake to put it in gear it stalls , checked vacuum leaks , none. so while it was idling I was playing with the switchs , I noticed when you turn the head lights on it would stall, stepped on the brake with out trying to put it gear , and it stalled. removes the ABS relay it continued to idle, but had no power brakes. replaced the ABS relay. it stalled again when stepped on the brake. so it appears anything to with lights makes it stall. all fuses are good, all relays are good, wiring looks fine no burns or anything. in fact everything functions as it should , until you step on the brake or turn on the headlights. headlight switch is also new. don't know if this is relavent , but courtesy lights inside the cab has never worked . cluster lights works as they should.
anyone know what the problem , I would be grateful for the help on fixing this, Thanks in advance.
I have a 1994 Chevy K1500 extended cab with a new 350 long block the Chevy Dealer put in after they ruined the my engine changing the intake gasket. I'm wondering if I can put this engine in a newer Chevy K1500 with a bad 350. I would like to have a extended cab with back doors or a 4 door pickup. If I can, what year can I go up to? What will I have to swap on the engine? Thanks for any help!
the oil pressure gauge is not about your oil level. (unless the level gets too low and the pick up tube doesn't get to the oil) It measures the oil pressure that the pump is able to produce. Things that affect oil pressure are the weight of the oil used, temperature of the engine, engine rpm, clearances in the oil pump, the screen on the oil pick up, pressure relief valve, cam and crank bearing clearances.
thicker oil raises the oil pressure. higher engine rpm raises the oil pressure. tight clearances in the oil pump increases pressure. same with bearings. Just from the information you posted, it would seem your mechanic has made a logical call on replacing the engine or crank kit it.
I am sorry that I don't have any good news to give you. You could see the place where you bought the truck to see if they are willing to help you out. If it's a used car dealer, see if they would take it back on a trade. Or try to sell it and buy another vehicle.
you would be looking at the dark green wire that goes from the temperature sender to the instrument cluster. Using an ohm meter, measure the resistance between the sender connector contact and the instrument cluster connector. (You would have to remove the cluster and unplug it) The cluster connector should be A to Z on the connector with the dark green wire being #R. However, most of the time, if the correct coolant sender is put in and the gauge is still reading cold, it's a bad gauge unit.
you should use a scanner and look at the the crank sensor signal. it may have a weak signal until the rpms get up higher. Also the MAP sensor could be giving the wrong signal to the computer. (or may have a bad 5V reference signal to it) Start up fuel pressure might be low. Cycle the key on and off a few times to turn the 2 second prime to build up pressure and then try starting it. Measure the actual fuel pressure. it takes a little more pressure to start a cold engine than to keep it running or to start it when it is warm. You could look at the coolant temp sensor to see if it shows a good temperature reading.
when it won't start can you look to see if the fuel injector is spraying fuel while you are cranking?
LOL Do I feel Like Dummy! I checked the cycling switch yesterday and found that it had worked loose. I took it off and firmly put it back on making sure the clip captured the tit on the switch. VIOLA !!!! A/C !!! I drove around half of last summer in AZ with the window rolled down. I'm such a procrastinator.... Thanks for the tip .... too funny. I want you all to share in a good laugh at me cause believe me, I'm laughing too.
I had a leaking Power steering hose and I figured that at 147000 miles why not change the pump as well. Would it be a good idea to change the remainder of the hoses? They are cheap and easy to reach. Would a leaking low pressure hose contribute to this?
Thanks by the way
I just installed a new 5.0 vortec and it will fire up for about 1 sec and then it will die. I am getting fuel but won' keep running.any ideas would be helpful.
how do you remove a radio from a 2002 silverado
98 silverado turn on left or right turn signal and the emergency flashers come on. with turn signal in off I turn on the headlights and the emergency flashers come on. also the dash lights flash with the emergency flashers
B0100 code, 2011, Silverado, 1500 4 x 4, 5.3L, Flex Fuel.
DIC shows message "Service Trailer Brake System".
A scan for codes shows seven events.
1. Short in D Squib Circuit. What and Where is D Squib? One of the Electronic Modules in the brake system some where?
2. FSC DTC What is FSC? Maybe...Front Sensor? Where?
5-7 repeats above.
These codes were manufacture specific to Chevy. No other codes.
No trailer is hooked up. Seems to show most frequently while backing out of the garage in cold weather. I can clear the code but it immediately registers again.
I noticed today that my battery seems to have a slow drain also. This was after 3 days of not driving it. Related...?
Ok i have a 1996 chevy silverado 5.7 vortec 4x4 ok.....so, when i start it, it runs fine for about 2 to 3 minutes then it starts to miss and back fire for about 15 to 20 min. and the check engine light comes on. I park, come back about 10 min later to leave and it does not want to start. After it does start it still misses and then it all stops after running it for about another 30~40 min. and the light goes off and runs fine
I would verify your fluid level and the color and smell of your transmission fluid. But it sounds like the trans is worn. Cold, when the fluid is thicker will let it catch for a while but when the fluid warms and thins it will just slip.
you should talk to a trans specialist
I have a 2003 chevy silverado z71, my check engine light came on and now I hear a grinding noise when the truck is in gear. It has this noise going forward and in reverse (all the time moving slow or fast), however if I shift it to neutral while rolling the noise stops. Is this the tranny or the transfer case?
I have a 1994 chevy 1500 with a 350 motor in it. It died the other day at a red light the engine died I put it in neutral, and re started it. It ran two minutes then died again. I was getting no spark and the rotor an distributor cap were fouled with corrosion so I replaced them. Still had no spark so and none coming from the ignition coil so I replaced that as well. Then my brain kicked in and I tested the plug wires, turns out the wire between the cap and coil was dead. The truck fired right up and ran for twenty minutes the died. I checked the brand bed wires and the one between the coil and cap is dead. I got a new set of plug wires thinking maybe it was a Defective set, ( have to love auto zone's lifetime warranty )
Put the new wire on and it would not crank at all checked the wire an it's has no connectivity using the ohms meter.
Is there a chance someone knows where my problem is?
I went to crank my truck and it reved up high the rpm went up to 4,000 then shut off and started smoking. I have replaced my IAC valve TPS sensor cleaned the throttle body and cleaned the massive air flow. Need helping trying to figure out what is causing the truck to rev up high and then shut right back off
I have a 2000 model chevy silverado4.8l 1500series and it burns a lot of gas and there are no sensors light on can you please help
1995 full size Chevy Silverado pick up no dash lights or front corner lights what could it be
I have a 94 chevy pick up with a 5.7l and a 350hp. Shat would cause my temp to go to max when my truck is turned off?
you should have a volt gauge not an amp gauge. having the gauge move when the blinkers are flashing is normal unless it is going to far to the discharge side.
you should use a dvom and check to see if the battery voltage is 13.8 to 14.2 with the engine running.
first things to check, I would verify that the alternator is charging correctly and check to see if there is a draw on the battery when the engine is not running.
I parked my truck last night and all was good with the world. Got in it just now and tri to start it, it turned over then clicked. I checked the battery cables...loose, so I tightened. The truck then started and is now knocking in the drivers side. Checked oil, its fine. What could cause this sudden knocking? Possibly the oil pump?
Hey guys- my 2010 silverado cuts on and off while I'm driving- it's like a complete shut off but my truck keeps going and doesn't stop- it jerks real hard. My friend put a computer on my car and no codes are coming up? Anyone know of this problem happening in other trucks or possibly have a solution?
hello i have a 1996 chevy chayane 4x4 5.0 liter vortex need a motor up to what year will match
I recently did a complete frame swap on my 99 silverado 5.3 and now my obd2 reads error linc,and it will start then die.I do not know what to do now.I have taken it to the garage and they didn't give much info because I didn't have the shop do it.please help me.
Guys I need some help.
I bought a 1994 z71 350 automatic. When the truck sits for a while the parking brake light comes on within the first minute or two of driving. Soon after the light comes on I start having a slight loss in acceration at low rpm. When it gets close to shifting, at higher rpm, I have a complete loss of acceration, almost like it shifts into neutral because it revs up. If I let off the gas it shifts and then the cycle repeats. Then my speedometer starts jumping around. Sometimes my service engine light comes on with it but sometimes it doesn't. The only other problem I have is that the brakes are pretty spongy and the temp gauge hardly budges (I am no expert so I don't know if a faulty temp sensor or such could be related). After it does this and then sits for a while it doesn't do it again. As long as I drive it at least every other day it will not do this. But more than that you can bet that light will come on. When I bought it I replaced the front pads, rotors, cv shafts, fuel filter, oil and filter, air filter, plugs, tps, and knock sensor. I also had a trans shop replace all the trans seals and gaskets plus filter. I'm out of ideas. Thanks in advance for the advice.
I just got chev 2008 silverado 1500 and airbag light is on but has not been deployed, it was in accident in rear bumper will I have to get new censor or can I get it reset or could it be something else?
you're going to need to look at the freeze frame data for your code. once you see where it is acting up, you will need to drive with a scanner hooked up and graphing your dtat stream. See it there is a glitch in your TPS circuit. Make sure to watch toy TPS voltage when you let off the throttle. See if you can notice if the TPS voltage stays too high. Should drop below 1.0 volt when you let off the gas pedal. If there are any drop outs check you wiring to the TPS.
I am at the Hair pulling stage and I don't have much left! Please help!
I have a no crank situation with my 98' chevy 2500 5.7 vortec. It started right up yesterday; I drove to bank ran in and out, truck would not start. 30 minutes later it started. I then drove home, ran in grabbed something and it would not start again. 30 minutes later it started. I drove to store it would not restart, towed it home to my shop where it sits now. I have gone through all the usual steps of testing everything from the key up to the starter. Here is what I have so far:
1) Remote switch to starter and it cranks. Bench test starter not necessary at this point I believe.
2) multi meter to S post on starter, key to ignition position, meter shows 11.2 volts at S post, key off meter shows 0 volts.
3) swapped out starter relay with brand new one, no changes. Tested both sides of relay block(constant and key on) 12.9 volts.
4) Security system light does go out after 5 seconds, so that is not issue, I think?
5) adjusted neutral safety switch every which way, no change. tried to start in neutral, no change.
It would appear that from the key to the starter all the power is where it should be!???? What am I missing???
Many Thanks In Advance!!!!!!
I have a 1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 5.7 engine. the distributor keeps arcing to the coil. I replaced the coil, but now its doing it again. Any sugestions?? Does the ignition coil on my truck need to be grounded??
5.3 clyinder 6 will show miss fire Afta truck is at 210 also rite before fan turns on steaming at tail pipe when fan cuts off temp goes down steam stops and miss fire comes in pull no. 6plug put new in runs great till starts steaming agin at 210 !!!! all lifters changed solenoid plate oil pump and pickup tub clean has just been done,!! I beleave there has to be a crack in head mabe block Cly. 6
I have a 2000 chevy silverado and i did an engine swap from a 4.3L motor to a 5.3L. But the engine i installed its from a chevy 2004 and bu the time i was finished with my truck, i noticed that the gauges weren't working. I turned my truck on and none of the gauges weren't working not even the RPM. So i connected my computer scanner to see wat it was and as soon i plug my scanner on the PED connection, the gauges started working and i disconnect the scanner and it stopped working. I already cheked all the ground wires and i doubled check if i had missed a harness connection but everything was connected fine.. I already have like 3 weeks and i cant find a solution to fix the gauges.
My father have 2008 Chevy Silverado and I am thinking to buy one more vehicle which is just for me, but I am a little bit confused about that, should I buy Used vehicle or New 2014 Chevy Silverado both have some advantages and disadvantages.
can somebody please tell me how to put a o-ring on the dipstick tube, I have to do it myself and I want to do it right!
Did a transmission swap on a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4x4. Now won't start. I'm thinking it has something to do with the neutral safety switch. Any suggestions?
Having trouble w my truck gauges. Truck will turn on but rpm, speed gauges wont and tranny will not shift on its own. Gauges and tranny will sometimes turns on and turn off while im driving
I have an 03 silverado 5.3l v8. Ac problems. Last year, my compressor (I'm assuming) would cause my ac tensioner to knock and broke 2 belts. Assuming bad compressor, I left the belt of and dealt with the heat. This year, I tried again and put a new belt on. Knocking was gone. Freon was low and I unscrewed high side valve and it flew off. Realized I had a leak at the high side valve. I then changed the valve, orifice, and accumulator. Evacuated system with pump. System helda vacuum. Refilled freon (only one can put it in the green which according to autozone is way less than what the system should hold). Blew cold at idle. As soon as I drove off, it stopped blowing cold, only slightly cool. Clutch stays on as it should. The old orifice looked like it had metal dust on it. Could it be sensor or compressor? I have the dual manual climate controls inside. Also, my truck seems to be getting low on coolant lately. Not sure if that could be related. I don't have check engine light. Please help
i step on brakes to come to a stop. and the brake pedal resists. and feels like truck dont want to stop. so i force it down and it agreesively stops . dont do it when i am slowing drown only when coming to a stop (i.e. stop lights, parking, etc. what is it where is it to be fixed and what does this job all intales was told absspeed sensor. was told there are only one and then told there are three.
Ive got a 1986 1ton 4- speed 350 vortec completly rebuilt....have steering problems and now have fluid coming from drivers hub? Also having drivline problems cuz of 8 inch body lift
I have a 2001 silverado had a 4.8 changed the 4.8 to a 5.3 also used the 5.3 harness and ecu, want start; turns over fire it's like it fires off and dies, any help would be awesome.
I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 .When you turn on the blower for the AC or the heater you can hear the blower running but no air comes out of the vents. Is there a relay or sensor that could be bad? Air does come out of the top vents when defrost is on. Air comes out of bottom vent also. 10 amp fuse for ac/heater is good.
A friend took his 1996 Chevy 2500 to a dealership to have the front drivers side axle seal replaced In doing so the dealership managed to ruin axle and the adjusting nut for ring gear. He said that he used a slide hammer which i dont believe, then he cut the mounting plate off the axle, and then Mutilated the nut with a punch and hammer. Which cost him and extra 600 dollars. I think He ruined the nut with the torch. then he tried to explain that he put a puller on the axle which makes absolutely no scents what are you going to pull off of? he said that the plate was cracked I can guess how that happened, Any thoughts? Thanks
I'm getting a high pitch air pressure release noise like an , "Air Brake" from someplace in the front of the engine. It happens when the AC is engaged, defrost also. It doesn't do it when AC is off. Noise happens in an instant at rev RPM in park or during acceleration on the road. The AC pressures are all on specs and there have never been any problems with the compressor or system parts in the past. The compressor clutch cycles as it should. All lines are cold and hot as they should be to the touch during cycle. This started midway through last summer. The AC blows cold 40 degree air on the hottest most humid days. This noise is loud enough it turns heads when I'm passing people on the street. Hope somebody can help me out soon. :? :x :roll:
What would cause less fuel mileage? I have a 2012 Canyon with the 3700 Vortec engine. I have noticed that I used to get very good mileage and now it seems that it has gone way down. No engine light has come on, the smell of gas comes in the cab when first started. I have sent it to the dealer and they say that there is nothing wrong with the mileage but I know different. They think the mileage is normal. They can't read with the computer because no light has come on. I used to be able to go up to the cottage and about a quarter of the way back on a tank. The cottage is about 515km (roughly 300m) and the tank is about 66L (roughly 20gal), so about 640kms (roughly 375m) I used to get. Now I only get about about 380kms (roughly 220m) on a tank. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Also what should my rpm's be at when running on the highway anywhere from 100 - 120kms (60 - 80ms)?
I have 4.3 V6 motor. I haven't heard of a crank relearn.
got a mechanical question for you, got a 94 chevy k1500 with a 5.7 v8 with throttle body injection, boggs down at stops and when accelerating basically anytime there is a load on the engine, fine when in park or neutral, replaced spark plugs, wires, coil, air and fuel filter, oil change, and idle air control valve. still does it not as bad but still does it, there is no cat to get clogged but the muffler does have a hole in it
I just had some warranty work done on my truck. I had to change the throttle body sensor and the evap sensor. As I was pulling out of the dealer the engine light came on again, turned around and got them to check the code. The mechanic showed me the computer and it said that piston 8 is misfiring. He suggested changing the plugs first and see if that fixes the problem. He also said that if that doesn't work than change the wires, if that doesn't work than the problem is deaper. Do I trust this guy and start with plugs or could it be something else wrong? Also what would be the side effects of letting this go too long?
tv cable adjustment for a "89" silverado 5.7l ?
I was driving home other night in the snow when all the rear lights in my 1993 chevy silverado just stopped working my father checked fuses and looked at wire couldn't see a reason why this would have happend. desprately need it fixed
For the past few weeks, when the temperatures have been in the single digits, my key fob would not actuate the door lock on the driver's door. Once temps warmed up a bit,
it worked. This past Friday as I was driving to work, nothing at the module worked; locks, windows, mirror, etc., and hasn't since.
I pulled the module and attempted to test for power. I am getting battery voltage at the 4-wire connector toward the front of the module, at the orange wire (#2) and have
continuity between ground and the black wire (#4).
Because of the size of the wires, I have to assume this is the connector I should be checking, prior to replacing the module. Am I correct?
Any help is deeply appreciated.
I have a 2000 Chevy 1500 truck runs great it just take 3 times turning it over before it will crack have know idea what it could be
It will start and idle or run for a few minutes then die and not restart for hours.
My 94 Chevy is leaking oil in it looks like 4 different places. I have oil under my truck and behind the passenger front tire. Its been idleing bad and when I am stopped and start to push the gas it jerks when it takes off a few times. It has a hard time gassing up hills and acts like it doesn't want to go at first when I press the gas pedal. If i push the break or let off the gas for a little bit, it automatically dies. And takes about two to three times to get it back cranked and I immediately have to press the gas to keep it running. There is also a rattling noise under the hood when I am pressing the gas but immediately stops when I take my foot off the pedal. Can anyone tell me what the problem may be?
I have a 84 Chevy 4x4 with a 350. It will start but no idle or drive. I have replaced all most everything but the motor and tranny. help don't wanna sell her. Thx Cheyenne. :cry:
Hi folks brand new here. I've got a weird situation with my buddies 02 silverado 2wd. It seems his engine/tranny slid back(?) against his fire wall. It looks fine under the hood to me as far as position except the passenger side rear spark plug wire is definitely touching fire wall. Then again, I'm not real familiar with this truck so I have no point of reference. He was getting on the freeway at about 35mph when he heard a thud and pulled over. He was able to limp it along home but tranny makes noise at above 25 - 30 mph. as well he now has no reverse. I looked under the rear cross member where the tranny mount is bolted to xmember and the washer seems to have moved back about 3/8". I jacked up the truck and then put a jack (carefully) under the engine to see if the rubber on the front mounts had seperated and had caused the engine/tranny to move but both sides seemed ok. The driver side did look separate but when jacking under engine, the whole front end lifted, telling me that the rubber hadn't separated. Also, the u joint had a dab tranny fluid on it. So, uhhhhhh? Anyone?
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado I bought at the end of September and if has been running great, til last night. I got in it to head to work, I started it up, and the idle was REALLY rough, I turned off the motor, gave it a moment and started it up again. This time the idle was really fairly smooth, but the check engine light was on, not flashing, just on steady. The idle was only at between 500 and 600 rpm. I got to work, did my shift and this morning when I started it up, it was just slightly rough and the idle was fine at about 750 rpm. I got home, parked, turned it off, came up to my computer in the apartment, did some searching on the subject and saw something about some part places having the scanners to diagnose possible troubles. I went back out to the truck, inserted the key, and she cranked away, but wont start. she's got 3/4 tank of gas. Any idea's? Similar experiences???
My 97 will not start if after trying to start I let the key return before it starts, once doing so all it will do is just crank and crank with no sign of starting. The check engine light will come on. Disconnecting the battery for several days (4) it started once connected again, the time before it was close to a month. Thanks for any help
Ok I have a 4.8 vortec left bank is not fireing I changed wirers plugs pulled injectors and cleaned them I checked volts on injector plug 7.8 I have good spark and compression now what. This is a 2003 chevy 1500. I did not check fuel pressure but when I pushed in where gauge hooks up it blew out off there heavy.
I just bought a 2002 Silverado 2500 and after I drive it a few miles the Reverse quits working. I can let the truck sit about 10 minutes and Reverse will work again, until it is driven again for a few miles. Could this be a sensor or ??????
scrap it and go buy a FORD :lol:
Rebuilt throttle body, previous mech, did not solve problem, excesive fuel and failure to advance timing are causing engine to backfire also I need to verify firing order .
I'm having trouble with interference on AM stations only. Suggestions? Solutions?
you're going to need to scan your instrument cluster. there have been instances where the wire harness out in the hood area rubs through. Also there are times where the soldered pin on the circuit board breaks loose. But by scanning the cluster you can see what the reading are doing.
I have a 1991 chevy c 1500 with a 305 engine it will start and idle great when cold as it warms up it will stall if i disconnect the water sensor it goes back to high idle like its cold i changed the sensor but it still does the same thing what else can i try
high idle could be from a couple of things, coolant temp sensor reading too cold or it could be a vacuum leak. there may be other things but I would look at those two first. Either one could also affect smog inspection. Why didn't you say what your truck was failed for? High hydrocarbons? High CO? of what does your state look at for to pass?
Fuel pressure and volume could be a possibility. Hows the O2 sensor trims? LT (long term) and ST (short term) fuel trims will tell you how the exhaust gases are being interpreted by your computer and in effect how your computer feeds your engine.
If your service engine light came on you should have your truck scanned to see what the code or codes are and go from there.
I have a 93 chevy C1500 with TBI. While driving check engine light comes on. Until the code is erased, idle engine speed fluctuates and eventually shuts off. The code says bad O2 sensor. Don't believe this is the problem since I've replaced it twice. Also, the fuel pump has been replaced twice, plugs, wires, distributor cap rotter and coil, EGR valve, MAP sensor, TP Sensor, cleaned off all engine grounds and none of that fixed the problem. Any other suggestions?
does it go bright and dim with the engine rpm? Or when you are driving at a steady speed it does it? Does it still do it if the lights are on and the engine is not running? Trying to see if it tied to the alternator output or if there is a draw in the circuit.
A year of the truck would determine what kind of instrument cluster and lights you have.
My 95 1500 Chevy is having problem. The air bag light comes on when I accelerate, the battery gauge on the instrumen cluster maxes out, the interior and exterio lights get brighter when I accelerate. Also, their is a wining noise that comes from the alternato when I press on the accelerato. Does anyone have a clue of what this could be?